Why is it good to be Capricorn in Quebrada de Humahuaca?

There was one trip in Argentina which I wanted to do for sure. It was Quebrada de Humahuaca. Seems like Humahuaca did not think the same about me. My bad luck started when I arrived in Salta...

The reason why I wanted to visit the north of Argentina so much, is because the Quebrada de Humahuaca is declared to be UNESCO World Heritage, and this is one of those few places where one can meet Andes people in the country.

When bad luck is chasing you but finally you win.

One day before our planned trip my host informed me at night, that we could not leave by car the next morning for the trip. Disappointment, and I looked for a Plan B. The next day I spent with finding an agency, and was crossing fingers that the trip up to the north would take place the next day.

The day of the trip started with heavy rain and I was 'blessing' myself for leaving my waterproof shoes in Buenos Aires. It did not even pass my mind that it could be 17 degrees on the north of Argentina. So I was shivering in sandals. What is more, as I was the first passenger who the driver picked up, I was seated in front of the air-conditioner. I was that privileged one enjoying the cold air coming from the dehumidifier. Despite of my bad luck I decided to go against my destiny and stay positive!

The first settlement, which we visited, was Purmamarca. What I really liked here was the atmosphere of the place. It felt mystical with the clouds above us. In the back of the streets the 7-colour mountain was standing. These many colours - orange, purple, yellow, blue, green, grey and red - were the result of the different phases of the erosion.

Street of Purmamarca, with the 7-colour mountain in the background
Purmamarca market under the clouds

When things started to turn out better...

While traveling from Purmamarca towards Humahuaca to the north we passed the Tropic of Capricorn. We stepped in the tropical zone. Those who were born in the zodiac of Capricorn could wish three things. Yaay, and I am a Capricorn! The driver especially emphasized to make wish and not to ask for miracles. Maybe my luck was coming back after.

Our next stop was Humahuaca, which is one of the northest towns of Argentina, close to the Bolivian border. Here people still wear traditional clothes and also sell colourful and hand-made textiles. The place is more touristic then Purmamarca, still the elder inhabitants are not used to visitors, and they do not like if someone takes pictures about them. According to their belief the camera takes their soul. 

Old lady selling handicrafts
Afternoon chat

After Humahuaca we turned back and drove to the south until we arrived to Tilcara, wehere we saw the reconstruction of an old Indigen town. What was, however, more impressive was the landscape. High mountains in several colours, like the table of a painter. We also visited Uquía, which is famous for its unique church with murals portraying angels with guns.

The Tilcara monument
The landscape was amazing

The passengers of the van also need to be mentioned. I was traveling with a group of elder tourists. Right at the beginning of the journey the driver introduced me to them as a rarity from Hungary. When they found out that I was traveling alone, maternal instincts came out in some of them. They constantly wanted to make sure that I was not getting lost, that I was fine and around. We spent the day talking and talking. As they were all descendants of Europeans, the current economic and political situation highly interested them. But we also talked about how to prepare the Hungarian poppy-seed roll for Christmas. 

Our driver was chauffeur, tour guide and sometimes tuned up for some folk music. We lost him for a while when our van broke down and another one took us to the next destination. But when he arrived we greeted him with loud ovation.

So it all started with bad luck, but as they say: 'Vini, vidi, vici'. I came, I saw and I won!
Who cared about me during the journey

About Tiny Girl With Big Bag

Hobby writer and autodidact photographer whose passion is to travel and get to know new people and cultures. She has been on 4 continents and 30 countries, and the outcome is this travel blog where she shares travel stories, thoughts, tips and photography always through a subjective eye.

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  1. Haha, a very good story! The place is so so nice, right? And I completely know how it is when the things go wrong :D

  2. yeah, this was the trip that I wanted to do sooo much... and had to fight for it the most.. hehe :))